Malawi
Months of research and negotiation and doubt finally brought
me to the stage where I was ready to depart. my ticket was bought and
I finally had confirmation of a rented car waiting for me at Lilongwe Airport in Malawi.
I have never been to Malawi. My whole trip was aimed at sourcing Moringa products. previously I imported from India and I was disparaged when the ZAR once more took n dip against major currencies.i also looked up at the exorbitant transport costs from India. i finally found a reputable supplier in Malawi and I was on my way to investigate,
I dressed "up" in my "Business gear" , branded cap and cap,cargo shorts and walking boots. i have traveled a lot in Africa and I dressed accordingly. I know about the heat,i know about endless delays and I know that African Time has its own boundaries and cannot be hastened.I know about dust and Malaria.
I chose to live in a village during my stay. I did so because my wife and I do a lot of welfare work and we have supported many a child in South Africa and paid for a few so that they could get educated. They never knew we did it anonymously.We are by no means rich. I run my small business Monica still works in the Finance Industry.Negotiations was difficult as English was not Siyani's first language.
he wanted me to stay at Livingstonia Beach in a four star Hotel with all amenities. I declined I wanted to experience the real Malawi. I had only four days and I knew full well that I am putting pressure on my itinerary.At first i decided to drive to Malawi and bring back my stock with my Navarra. Monica stopped it because of my health. I am Diabetic,have a pacemaker and are hearing impaired.
So finally a friend picked me up from home and carted me off to O R Tambo Airport. There I was rushed from one departure gate to another and walked long distances before our Flight departed only 45 minutes late.
I arrive at Lilongwe Airport late and was already irritated,then we waited at customs in a "Sauna" without much ventilation. It was slow and uncomfortable and I was perspiring profusely.I was worried that Siyani was waiting and we have never met. I have seen his picture on his Facebook Page. I need not worry he was there with a driver and my travel companions looked in amazement as I gave the guy a bear hug on recognizing him.
My car he organised was waiting and he brought the driver along because he does not drive. I would take over outside Lilongwe do drive the 90 kilometers to Salami,where he lives.The traffic was backed up getting past the parking booms and I got out of the car with my camera and started clicking away. The journalist in me took over and I did not care about people staring at me walking the distance to the booms.
with Electric windows and a cracked windscreen.
I had my SA drivers License on me somewhere in the zipped pockets of my cargo shorts along with my wallet and passport
Frangapani Flowers,the
airport gardens are well kept
There is order in Malawi. The people are disciplined and friendly. They are law abiding .
I took over driving not far out of town.The winding road reminds of the Valley of a Thousand Hills back home. The speed limit is 90 km per hour and we were barely out of town when we we re stopped at our first Police Road Block. basically two booms with advertising boards on and a couple of officers manning it. I was asked for my license. it was given a cursory glance and we were on our way
There are many of these Roadblock on the way to Salima. there is not much traffic,just the occasional SUV or truck. lots of pedestrians and animals and the odd oxcart. Vehicles are well utilized and I never saw a vehicle with just one occupant. in the rural areas you find over loaded vans filled with people to the brim. You also find the motorbikes on the dirt roads always with a passenger. every bicycle has a passenger or is loaded with charcoal bags. In fact you can rent a bicycle Taxi into or around town for a few Kwatcha.
The place is beautiful and clean. homesteads are spread throughout the valleys and people are busy with their daily routine. there are many informal markets along the route and the odd Shop with electricity and other amenities.
you get the odd Tuc-Tuc and motorbike along the way but mostly bicycles and buses and trucks.
Power is available when it is available. A cold cold drink is not always available. If you want an ice cream cone you can get one if you come back when the machine is working.
They cannot tel you when just come back later.
I asked Siyani if we could buy ice for my whiskey I brought along. No problem you want a whole block etc. There are no ice cubes just blocks and
they are not made from purified water and
is meant to cool items in containers without contaminating it it is pulled out of its container by wire tongs. then hacked of with an ice pick .
I paid about ZAR 7 for a half quarter of ice
We had to supply our own plastic bag to keep it in. Siyani had small plastic bags of frozen distilled water that he sellsfrom his home
At other places you not always get
cold items.Electricity comes at a price and only bigger outlets have freezers and fridges. Siyani has a freezer but only uses when he really
needs to. His sachets of frozen water was like
manna to me.
We finally arrived at Siyani's home. It is unasuming but comfortable and surrouded by moringa trees. he does everything by hand. He acts like a cooperative in buying leaves and seeds from surrounding
homesteads and villages. he then processes and packs it. he was trained by a Dutch citizen who is also a partner. he is well known and liked in his community and does a lot of welfare work, specially with the youth. I was here to check on my stock and to pay for it.
before cold pressed for Moringa oil.The
leaves are dried on Racks in a well aired shed
and then bagged and stored.
Moringa trees grow wild in Salima and every house have a few. they are also lining the streets
in towns and homesteads.
Siyani with his wife and their daughter. He has staff and family who assist and help him with his business. i was barely away when friends arrived with gifts of fish. see the Moringa trees in the background lining the street he lives in.
It was getting late and I had to depart to Lefuwu village. i was supposed to drive there myself but with the pending sunset and me never being in Malawi and not hearing well he offered to go with me lest I get lost and it was a good thing he did. We did get lost and had to ask directions and there was a major works program on the road to Lifuwu village. When we finally arrived at my
destination the sun was setting.
My first Sunset In Malawi in frontof the gate to The Frienldy Gecko guesthouse where
I stayed. Notice the small fire in bottom left corner of image. Siyani paid a villager who guided us there and finally I could look forward to rest. i was up since 5 Am to dodge the heavy traffic around O R Tambo that morning. I was exhausted from the heat and rushing from one place to the other. My accomodation was booked and though we phoned before we left Salima we could not reach my host by phone.
A Culvert being built on the road to Lifuwu village. I would have never made in on my own in the dark,not knowing the place.
Someone came to open the main gates and I drove in recognize the Chalet I saw on the Internet
and parked next to it. I proceeded to the main house to announce my arrival leaving Siyani in the car. I had to arrange accommodation for him for the night and then this beautiful young girl came out with the setting sun reflecting off her smiling face and she ran up to me and hugged me.Ellen Serra Kapeleta became my friend and I even said I would adopt her as a daughter because she reminded me of my two daughters at home.. I felt so at ease with her as if I knew her for a long time. Christopher was a gracious host and the Director of Help2kids,Malawi.he can be seen behind Ellen.
I did not tell him or anyone about my welcoming nip by one of the dogs guarding the complex. It broke skin and fortunately I packed an antiseptic salve in my medicine bag.The were inoculated regularly and there was no fear of me suffering anything worse than a few scratches.
Chris gave Siyani a place to stay and I could
unpack. I put my half quarter in a bowl to cool
down my whiskey. I wanted to relax. We were given a lovely meal of locally grown basmati-type rice and a delicious stew. Top class and welcome. my first meal since I left home. I did
not eat on the flight.
The front garden facing Leopard Bay beach
in Lifuwu village. notice the dugout canoe that was planted and the reed fence shielding the
garden. My favorite chair in the garden where I sat to relax and recharge watching the lake and the activity of villagers.
My home for three nights. Comfortable and clean with en suite bathroom. The Bed is covered by a mosquito net and the windows with gauze and no glass to let the breeze through. there was an Fan,hot water,chairs and plenty of packing space. I simply loved the geckos patrolling the gauze on the outside of the windows when you visit the loo. they were extra protection against malaria and other creepy things that bite.
The Veranda of the Main house,where the volunteers stay. There were three swallows perching there in the evenings and a few bats getting rid of insects I loved staying there. The staff are helpful and friendly.The volunteers go around their daily tasks and are approachable. Chris asked if I wanted
to join their Fun day activities with the village children the next day and I agreed.That was one of the reasons I wanted to stay here. i would take Siyani back to Salima the next day and come back on my own. Siyani and I had a lot of business to attend to and I had a couple of purchases to make and again
there was not enough time in the day and the heat was getting to me. my feet and ankles were swollen because I kept on drinking water that simply used my body as a recycling plant.
My water pills had not enough time to do its work. I was stressed and bothered and pressed for time.
I made my way back to Lifuwu village to shower and rest a bit.
I then hit the Beach with my camera to record the activities.
I have written about Help2kids and placed a lot of images elsewhere on my blog titled Vilage. Leopard Bay is breathtaking with a clean sandy beach. The children had loads of fun and activities assisted by Chris and the volunteers
A Volunteer Midwife having quality time with
the smaller children. She assisted a local woman give birth during the few days I spent in Lifuwu.
Chris and his team pulled out all the stops
to entertain the children and youth. celebrating with music and games and having
loads of fun
The bay is a hive of activity. Roda construction vehicles draw water from the lake and people collect sand for building with oxcarts.
Early the next morning the villagers were active
on the beach. Carrying wood and water,bathing
and carting building materials. One guy even brought his car to wash .
Young boys were herding cattle to their feeding fields. Wood is collected for home fires
and also to produce charcoal to sell.
| "Usipa" (Engraulicypris Engraulicyprisardella) is one of the non-cichlid fish. These small fish swim in huge numbers near the surface of the lake. Since they like brightness, they are usually active in the daytime, | ||||
 |
| A delicious fried fish kebab. I tried one it is divine. In the background are hundreds of thousands of these little fish being dried on racks. |
The waters are tranquil in the bay. There is normally a breeze and it is cooler than inland. There are waves and the water has a pleasant warm temperature in the shallows.
 |
| Got up 3 AM on my final day to capture this image. |
Wooden dugout canoes are used among modern fishing boats.They use nets to fish and dry the Usipa surface fish on wooden racks on the beach. There are no flies and that is an anomaly with all the fish abound.
Drying racks and woven baskets being cured over a fire. These are honest, hard working
and industrious people.
Every where you go you get brick ovens,where
people manufacture red clay bricks to buld their homes with.
Malawians are expert weavers and makes a host of items from mats,to hats to
baskets and holders from locally grown grasses
A young lady with a facial mask and a self made grass hat.
peace in the villages. Crime is largely contained and although I drove on my own I never felt threatened in any way.
Making maize meal the traditional way. The houses in Malawi are neat and clean and fenced with reed fences/ Lifuwu is known for its delicious rice they grow. there are plantations and fruit trees and lots of domestic animals about.
"Utaka" (Copadichromis, Otopharynx, etc) is also kinds of cichlids that is very common and popular as a food fish in Malawi. Utaka is a general name including several species that inhabit off shore in the Lake. Most of them mainly eat plankton and grow up to 10~20 cm in length.
| "Chambo" (Oreochromis sp. etc.) is the most popular and favored fish in Malawi. This includes a few kinds of large cichlids that reach to 30 cm. Some of them are found at offshore on the lake and another is found at weedy point in the river. They usually swim in the water in groups. | ||
This house has Electricity but many use
Solar panels to drive electrical appliances and radios
This lady and baby bought a fruit lolly
from the guy on the bicycle.i tried one and it was nice and cold but a bit sweet to my taste.
I had a chat with this guy at his stall and he invited me into his homestead. he has fruit trees and paddy's ,cattle and goats. His pigeon coup drew my attention and has its own homemade clay pottery bath.
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